Car Plush

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I am super excited with the result of this pattern. It came out almost exactly like I had hoped. When I first started crocheting I was always a little bummed at the lack of “boyish” patterns. There are plenty of dolls and unicorns and cutesy things. And while my boys absolutely played with those types of toys too, they also liked cars and dinosaurs and rocketships. There just weren’t many crochet patterns for them.

One of my goals this year is to try and fill that gap! This Car Plush and Play Mat, along with the Airplane and Train, are the first.

These patterns are really quick to make, they require very little sewing of pieces, they are simple in design but open to being customized! The car is great on it’s own or as part of the set!

Below you’ll find the FREE written pattern. If you would like additional explanatory photos to help with some of the joining, you can purchase the PDF download from either Ravelry or Etsy.

This pattern is available on it’s own or as part of the Vroom Plushies Set, where you’ll get the Car, Airplane and Train patterns along with their individual play mats!

I hope you enjoy this crochet pattern and that I’ve made it easy enough to follow. If you have any questions you can contact me at auburnelephant@gmail.com OR through the contact page here. I’d also love to see your finished creations! Connect with me on Facebook or Instagram!

A couple of disclaimers: This pattern is intended for personal use only. You are welcome to use the pattern to make and sell products, to keep for yourself, or to give away as gifts. I would appreciate receiving credit and a link back to the site. Please do not republish or distribute the pattern in any way, or use my photos in your listings.

Supplies Needed:

Big Twist Value Yarn Medium Worsted Weight #4 (100% Acrylic, 371 yds, 6 oz) (yardage listed is approximate)
- Red (or car color), 50 yds
- Green, 110 yds
- Black, 55 yds
- White, 10 yds
- Yellow, 2 yds
G/6 4.00mm hook, for plush
H/8 5.00mm hook, for mat
Polyfil stuffing
Needle, for weaving in ends

Stitches/Terminology Used:

Ch- Chain
Sl st- Slip Stitch
St(s)- Stitch(es)
SC- Single Crochet
FPSC- Front Post Single Crochet
2SC- Single Crochet Increase- Place 2 SC in same stitch increase.
DEC- Single Crochet Decrease, Using the Invisible Decrease method, insert hook up through front loops of next 2 stitches, yarn over, pull through front loops, yarn over, pull through to finish decrease
FSC- Foundation Single Crochet, this will create your base chain and first SC row. To start ch 3, insert hook into first ch, *yarn over, pull through. Yarn over, pull through 1 loop, yarn over, pull through both remaining loops. One FSC made. Insert hook through bottom of the previous FSC* (the mock chain made after the 2nd pull through) and repeat from * to *.

Notes:

Until noted, most of the Plush part of this pattern will be worked in rows. Each row will start with a Ch 1 and turn. Beginning chains do NOT count as stitches.
The Mat part of this will be worked in rows. Each row will begin with a Ch 1 and turn. Beginning chains do NOT count as stitches.
The Mat will be a SC square with color changes for the road. You will add some details with a Surface Slip stitch. You can also use embroidery if you prefer.
For the border of the mat, you’re going to SC around one time. You can do extra rounds if you’d like a bigger mat. You can either make the entire border green, or you can change the color to line up with the road if you’d like.
Gauge for each is not very important. You want to make sure that your stitches are tight enough so that your stuffing doesn’t show through and that your pieces hold their shape. If you need to go down a hook size to maintain tight stitches that is fine but your finished size might come out smaller. Finished size for the Plush should be about 6” long. The finished size for the mat should be about 14” x 14”.

Using G hook

In Red (or car color)

This section will be worked in rows. Each row will begin with a Ch 1 and turn. (see notes)

Ch 7,

1) In 2nd from hook, SC in each st across. (6)

2-3) SC in each st across. (6)

4) SC in each st across, do NOT turn after this row. (6)

5) Going down the side of your work, SC in next 4, SC 6 across starting ch, SC 4 going down the next side. Leave Row 4 unworked. (14) Your corner stitches will get worked twice on this row. Now you will be turning at the end of the rows again.

6-8) SC in each st across the three sides made in previous row. (14)

9) SC in next 4, FPSC in next 6, SC in remaining 4. (14)

10) SC in next 4, *2SC in next, SC;* Repeat from * to * 3 times total, SC in remaining 4. (17)

11) SC in next 4, *2SC in next, SC in next 2;* Repeat from * to * 3 times total, SC in remaining 4. (20)

12) SC in next 6, 2SC in each of next 2, SC in next 4, 2SC in each of next 2, SC in remaining 6. (24)

13-23) SC in each st across. (24)

24) SC in next 8, DEC, SC in next 4, DEC, SC in remaining 8. (22)

25) SC in next 7, DEC, SC in next 4, DEC, SC in remaining 7. (20)

26) SC in each st across. (20)

27) SC in next 6, DEC, SC in next 4, DEC, SC in remaining 6. (18)

28) SC in next 5, DEC, SC in next 4, DEC, SC in remaining 5. (16)

29) SC in next 5, DEC, SC in next 2, DEC, SC in remaining 5. (14)

30-34) SC in each st across. (14)

35) *SC in next, DEC;* Repeat from * to * across. SC in remaining 2. (10)

36) SC in first, DEC 4 times, SC in last. (6)

37) Skip 5 sts, sl st to last SC of the row.

Finish off, use tail to sew the front opening shut.

Undercarriage

This section will start by working in joined rounds. Start each round with a Ch 1 and end with a sl st to join to the first st of the round.

Reattach yarn to bottom rear corner

1) SC evenly around. Should have 6 sts across the front and rear ‘bumpers’ and 28 on each side. Join with sl st to first of the round. Do not turn.

2) Ch 1, SC in next 6, skip next 1, 5DC in next st, skip next 1, SC in next 10, skip 1, 5DC in next st, skip next 1, SC in next 20, skip next 1, 5DC in next st, skip next 1, SC in next 10, skip 1, 5DC in next st, skip next 1, SC in remaining 10. Join with a sl st to the first of the round.

From here, you will work in rows. Each row starts with a Ch 1 and turn.

3) Ch 1, turn. SC in next 6 (should be the rear bumper). Leave the rest unworked.

4-30) Ch 1, turn. SC in each st across. (6)

31) Ch 1, turn. SC together with the front bumper.

Finish off, leave a long tail to sew the undercarriage to the sides of the car. Stuff once you have made it most of the way around.

Road Mat

Using H hook (Tip-If your starting row seems loose, you can use a smaller hook size to do your foundation row.)

This section will be worked in rows. Each row will begin with a Ch 1 and turn. (see notes)

In Green

1) FSC 50 OR Ch 51, starting in 2nd from hook, SC in each ch across. (50)

2-19) SC in each st across. (50)

In Black

20-31) SC in each st across. (50)

In Green

32-50) SC in each st across. (50)

Ch 1, continuing around the edges, SC evenly. Place 3 SC in each corner. If you want the colors to line up, you will change to black when going by those ends. Join with a sl st to the first st of the edging.

Finish off. Weave in ends.

To add the road lines to your mat, use a surface sl st to do the white lines along the row where the green and black meet. Then take a length of gold and embroider the center dotted line. You can also surface slip stitch those lines, it will just mean more ends to weave in.

You can attach your plush directly to the Mat if you would like. You can also leave them separate. Or you can attach the two pieces with a chain, chain a length of about 10” and sew one end to the edge of the mat and the other to the underside of the plush. This will keep the two parts together but still allow for vrooming!!

To attach the plush directly to the mat, you will want to take a long length of black yarn (so that it doesn’t show through the bottom of the mat) and stitch up through the plush in the place you’d like. You can keep a small join, or connect it longer.